Finally, the extra kicker is they also have a nice thermocouple sensor that works with the Raise 3D firmware and breakout with no changes. Heck, they too are releasing a titanium based version. E3D has all kinds of 3rd party parts and custom coated thermal barriers. The V2 does not have a lot of aftermarket or 3rd party parts and you have to get it from Raise 3D. This is where the E3D V6 I feel has a strength and user durability factor The V2 Raise 3D and it's 4mm threaded throat might work well thermally, but mechanical and abuse wise, I'm willing to call it a place that folks can and do break from time to time. We simply need time and multiple users testing with different filaments and even then that's a lot of not even pseudo science. There are a lot of variable here so it's just a single data point, don't weigh heavily and think I'm saying this mod is good or bad. Some work, some don't, some work well for some things and bad for others.įor me right now, a Raise 3D v2 hotend seems to work better than genuine E3D v6- at least in this thermal barrier jam. There are hundreds of ways to build an extruder hotend and dozens of theories of operation. So on one hand, I absolutely support experimentation and alternative adaptation of parts and extruders. Being the person that came up with the thermal runaway mod- I know the temps are stable in this rig and have rebuilt the entire hotend several times over with brand new parts (new nozzle, thermal barrier) and yet just have seen some crazy jams with Raptor. Now absolutely, this is one example, it's not your custom heatsink, and who knows if it's the 2 rolls of Raptor I just happened to try have an issue (oversized filament "bulges" from manufacturing) or other defect (something up with that E3D v6 hotend or setup). Exactly opposite, the V2 just seems to work well for me. Again, both machines have Bondtech feeders, the code is the same, the main difference here is one has a V2 and one has an E3D v6 and that E3D and Raptor did and do no seem to play well. At the same time while typing this, my N2 with a genuine stock V2 hotend just completed a 20+ hour print in Raptor PLA like it was nothing. In every case, it jammed in the thermal barrier tube and was a royal pain in the neck to clear: have to remove from the heatsink, heat the block and thermal barrier, push using the supplied raise 3D metal clearing rod into the entrance of the thermal barrier, extrude some Esun cleaning filament through it to ensure I get all the bits stuck to the walls, and then maybe try again. The why here is that jammed now on me about 10 times- every time with MakerGeeks Raptor PLA. ![]() I know you are going what does this have to do with anything right now? My point is, this is a prototype custom 3D printer I have been experimenting with using Raise 3D N series electronics and firmware, it has a Bondtech BMG single extruder feeder and uses a genuine E3D V6 (all bought from Filastruder in GA). Since we wanted some temperature durability and this printer isn't enclosed, it's cooling off temp wise with the weather, printing in ABS or other materials was not likely to work well on such a huge part. I'm one of the very few people in the area with a custom printer large enough for this tray. I recently went through a battle attempting to print a huge 3D part (just happens to be a supercapacitor stacking/mounting tray for this huge energy bank project some members of my local makerspace was working on. I know there are people who swear by the genuine E3D V6 thermal design (heatbreak AKA thermal barrier, heatsink, and heaterblock). I do want to give a counter flipside to this.
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